Sunday, December 03, 2006


Quince, San Francisco.  clockwise from top left: tarajin with butter and sage; devil's gulch rabbit, four preparations; liberty duck breast and leg with black currant vinegar; and, heritage red waddle suckling pigJoy, Mike, Lisette and I dined at Quince this evening as we have done once every fall for the past 3 years. Previously, we decided that Quince has some of the most delicate filled pastas and best prepared fowl in the City. Tonight’s meal only reinforced that conclusion.

We started with roasted quail with persimmon carpaccio. The quail was cooked perfectly and loaded with flavor. We then sampled four of the pastas: taragin with butter and sage, tagliolini with Dungeness crab, caramelle of celery root with balsamico, and tortelli of buttertnut squash. Each was delicious, but the caramelle and tortelli were among the finest second course selections I have ever tasted. They were indescribably soft and the fillings were beyond tasty.

Deciding on entrees was tough and, in retrospect, our eyes may have been bigger than our stomachs as we were unable to consider dessert. We ordered two of the heritage red waddle suckling pigs. The pig was served 5 ways: crispy pig’s foot, single chop, loin, tenderloin and belly. Potato galette, turnips and chicory were provided as accompaniment. We also selected Devil’s Gulch rabbit, which was boned and presented fours ways, and the liberty duck breast and leg which was served with a black currant vinegar sauce. Excellent!

Quince: 1701 Octavia St, San Francisco, CA (415) 775-8500

Insider tip: for parties of 6 of more consider trying to book the kitchen table